Preparing the Seedbed

Weed control before seeding is the biggest single factor in how well a native planting establishes. Native seedlings put most of their energy into their roots for the first two years, so their top growth is slow, and any weeds left on site will out-compete them for light, water and nutrients.

Clear existing vegetation

Before seeding, remove all perennial weeds and unwanted vegetation from the planting area. On sites with heavy weed pressure, it’s worth planning a full growing season of preparation.

Herbicide

On most sites a glyphosate program is enough. Start in early spring at the first signs of weed growth, and expect to make repeat applications through spring, summer and early fall. Wait at least a full week after the last application before seeding, and always follow the product label.

Solarization

If you’d rather avoid synthetic herbicides, natural herbicides are one option and solarization is another. Solarization uses the sun’s heat to kill existing vegetation, so it works best through an intense summer and is usually started in spring ahead of a fall seeding. Lay UV-stabilized plastic over the soil, bury the outside edges so no air moves underneath, and set a weight in the center. Leave it in place through the summer, then remove it in early fall and sow the mix right away.

Avoid tilling

Tilling brings buried weed seed to the surface, where it germinates right alongside your mix. If the soil has to be worked, use minimum-till equipment to keep the disturbance to a minimum.

Firm the seedbed

Clear any debris from the surface before planting. A seedbed that’s too soft and airy lets seed sink too deep to germinate, and it dries out faster than a firm one. If the soil is loose, firm it with a roller or cultipacker before seeding, aiming for ground that’s firm but not compacted.

If you’re starting from lawn, Converting Turf to Meadow covers the ways to remove the turf first.